Knitting methods and apparatus and products thereof



J. J. MlLLAR May 4, 1965 KNITTING METHODS AND APPARATUS AND PRODUCTS THEREOF Filed June 28, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 mill Ilium] N NE :2

May 4, 1965 A J. J. MILLAR 3,181,314

KNITTING METHODS AND APPARATUS AND PRODUCTS THEREOF Filed June 28, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. JQHN J. MILLAR BY 7 4 1 1 44 3x1 v ff--47 ATTORNEYS United States Patent C) 3,181,314 KNHTING METHUDS AND APPARATUS AND PRUDUCTS THEREGF John J. Millar, Laconia, N.H., assignor to Scott 82 Williams, Incorporated, Laconia, NIL, a corporation of Massachusetts Filed .lune 28, 1962, Set. No 265,972 6 Claims. (Cl. tie-42) This invention relates to knitting methods and apparatus and products thereof and particularly to the production of tubular knit ladies stockings on circular knitting machines wherein the needle cylinder is rotated continuously during the knitting operation.

Stockings have been produced by knitting on circular machines solely by rotary knitting tubes which are unshaped during the knitting operation. These tubes, knit of a thermoplastic yarn such as nylon, are then sewed across the toes and shaped by heat setting 011 forms by the operation commonly known as preboarding. The shape of the heel of the stocking is produced solely by this preboarding operation. Necessarily, considerable distortion of the loops in the vicinity of the heel is then necessary. Stockings of this sort have been provided, 'however, by introducing shaping during the knitting procedure by providing extra partial courses in the heel portions of the stockings. This is accomplished by knitting the instep portions single feed, while knitting the heel and sole portions two feed. The production of extra length of fabric in the heel and foot portions in this fashion provides for the ultimate formation of heel pockets by the preboarding operation, without too great a stretching of the stitches at the heel. However, this entails the introduction and removal from knitting of the additional yarn providing the extra partial courses. As is well known, any introduction into single feed knitting of a second feed, and the removal thereof, results in free yarn ends with the resultant formation of eyelets. This situation is due to the fact that upon stretching of the stocking on the leg of a wearer the yarn ends may reeve backwardly to form enlarged stitches. The result is the production of unslightly junctions where the heel and foot portions join the instep portion.

The general object of the present invention is to eliminate the enlarged loops or eyelets in a stocking of this type to provide a product of superior appearance and with avoidance of possible loop disengagement which would.

result in runs. By the use of the invention shorter yarn ends, resulting from cutting of (floats, are permissible, eliminating the unsightly longer yarn ends which have to be provided for reasonable safety in the case of stockings of this type as he etoiore produced. In accordance with the invention, the method of knitting may be carried out on a multiple feed machine which speeds up the rate of production of the leg and toe portions of the stocking and also provides for the insertion of the partial heel and foot courses.

The foregoing and other objects of the invention will become more apparent from the following description, read in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIGURE 1 is a developed view of the cam system or" a knitting machine of circular type arranged to carry out the invention, there being illustrated at the right of this figure a needle and associated elements as used in accordance with the invention;

FIGURE 2 is a diagram illustrative of the arrangement of needle and pattern jack butts;

'FEGURE 3 is a fragmentary view of a stocking provided in accordance with the invention; and

FIGURE 4 is a diagrammatic view illustrating the stitch formations provided in accordance with the invention at the junctions of instep and heel or foot portions of the stocking of FIGURE 3.

The knitting machine involved is generally conventional and of the type used for the two feed knitting of ladies sheer hosiery. Only so much of this machine is illustrated as is special to the invention. It will be understood that controlling devices for the various movable cams about to be described are conventional, involving the use of usual pattern devices such as the usual main cam drum of such a machine.

Indicated at the upper portion of FIGURE 1 is a main feed point indicated at :2 comprising the usual throat in which are located the yarn feeding fingers 4 carrying the yarns M and M As will be understood, additional yarn feeding fingers may be provided containing yarns f different types for example for the formation of reinforced welts. However, the invention is concerned solely with the two yarns illustrated. While, as will be apparent hereafter, the choice of yarn is quite arbitrary, it may be assumed for consistency of description and as illustrative of the production of sheer stockings, that each of the yarns M and M is fifteen denier nylon.

The second feed is similarly indicated at 6 and is shown as comprising the usual throat associated with a pair of yarn fingers 8 and 9 carrying, respectively, the yarns A and .A. Again, for consistency, it may be assumed that the yarn A is thirty denier nylon while the yarn A is fifteen denier nylon.

Conventional cams ill and 12 are provided at the first feed 2 of which 12 is the stitch cam and may be ordiarily fixed, though adjustable to control the length of stitches being formed. It is associated with the landing cam 14 and followed by the raising cam is arranged to raise needles to tuck height. Following this is a radially movable clearing cam 18, preceding the cams 2t and 2?; at the second feed. The latter is associated w th the landing cam '24 which is followed by the raising cam as arranged to raise needles to tuck level. This is followed by a radially movable clearing cam and by the lowering cam 3 3. As will appear, the cams Jill, 22, 28 and 3% are all radially adjustable to provide selective action or needle butts.

Needles 32 provided with butts 33 are carried in the usual slots in a needle cylinder 34. Below each needle is an associated intermediate jack 36 and below the intermediate jacks are rocking pattern jacks 38. These jacks are provided with the usual upper portions engageable by a cam to provide rocking action. As will later appear more clearly, certain of the pattern jacks are provided with butts ll, and all are provided with selectively removable butts 42 for pattern control. Each pattern jack is further provided with a lower butt 44 provided with a notch 46 at its lower end. Sinkers 48 cooperate in usual fashion with the latch needles 32. The needles and their associated elements are entirely conventional and need not be desceribed in greater detail.

Lowering cams 5t) and 52 are provided to cooperate with the butts 3'7 of the intermediate jacks 3-6.

A cam 54 is provided in usual fashion to engage the upper portions ll) of the pattern jacks to rock outwardly their lower portions for selection by cams $6 which are carried, as usual, by levers controlled by a conventional trick wheel. When, in accordance with selection effected by the actions of selected earns 56 in conjunction with proper arrays of butts 42 the lower ends of the pattern jacks are rocked inwardly, these lower portions miss jack raising cams 53 and 6t) so that the pattern jacks move at low level. On the other hand, jacks which do not have their lower ends pressed inwardly will engage the cam 5% to be raised thereby, the notches rising over the sharp edges of cams 58 and When pattern jacks are raised they raise their associated intermediate jacks and associated needles. Following raising by cam 53, any pattern jack so raised will be lowered by the action of cam 50 on the butt 37 of its intermediate jack. When thus lowered its lower end will remain in outer position so that the pattern jack will be again raised by cam 60 and then again depressed by the action of cam 52 on the butt of its associated intermediate jack. These actions of the pattern jacks and intermediate jacks are well known and conventional.

The special cam 62 is provided for action on the butts 41 of certain of the pattern jacks to effect raising of these pattern jacks and of their associated intermediate jacks and needles.

FIGURE 2 diagrams the arrangement of needle butts 33. The needles which are to form the instep portions of a stocking are provided with intermediate length butts as indicated at 66, while those which are to form the heel portions of a stocking are provided with long butts as indicated at 64. In general it is desirable that the panel of needles having the butts 64 should be substantially less than half the needles as illustrated. Flanking the panel of needles having the butts 64 are needles having short butts 68, there being desirably two such needles on each side of the heel or sole panel. The pattern jacks associated with the needles having the butts 68 are the ones provided with the butts 41 previously mentioned adapted to be acted upon by the cam 62. The remaining pattern jacks are without such butts, or, if desired for other purposes may be provided with shorter butts at the positions of the butts 41, such shorter butts being missed by the cam 68. will be described as involving plain knitting without pattern formations to provide mesh, non-run, or similar characteristics, though it will be readily understood that in view of the provisions of the pattern jacks various more elaborate fabrics may be produced.

A stocking provided in accordance with the invention is shown at "iii. As will shortly appear the leg portion 72 may be formed two feed, as may also a welt portion (not shown). The instep portion 74 is formed single feed. A reinforced portion 76 extends from a position which may correspond to a conventional high splice, though this may be omitted if desired, through a heel portion and then through a foot portion reaching in the region 79 the toe 78. The reinforced portion 76 is knit two feed, as is also, desirably, the toe portion 78. As is usual in the case of stockings of this type, the toe is closed by a seam, not shown. As will appear, the reinforced portion 76 is formed on the same needles throughout its lengthwise extent. However, FIGURE 3 illustrates the stocking as it appears after the pie-boarding operation, and in view of'the pre-boarding which gives shape to the stocking, there will generally apear some widening of the heel portion at 77 and also in the region 79 adjacent to the toe. These conditions are the result of the distortion of the fabric during the pre-boarding operation.

The operation may now be described with particular reference to FIGURE 1.

The welt and leg are formed in the same fashion with the exception that for the production of the Welt heavier yarns may be used than for the production of the leg. Ac cordingly the description will be started by reference to leg formation.

For this the cam 30 is fully withdrawn so as not to engage any needle butts, while the earns 18, '22 and 28 are located in full inward position so as to engage all of the needle butts. In the knitting of the leg it may be assumed that only the yarn M is active at the first feed and only the yarn A is active at the second feed. Usually these yarns will be of the same denier, being fifteen denier in accordance with the assumption previously made. Movement of the needles being from right to left as viewed in FIGURE 1, all of them enter at a at cleared level and continue at this level along the path portions indicated at a and a Depressed first by cam 19 and then by cam 12, they take yarn M and are then It may be here remarked that the invention example.

raised over cam 16 to tuck level 0 and are raised by cam 18 to the clearing level at 2. They are then successively depressed by cams 20 and 22 taking the yarn A and then rise over cams 26 and 28 back to the path a at cleared level. As will be evident, in view of the clearing actions, two feed plain knitting results for the rapid formation of the leg.

For the information of the reinforced portion 76 comprising the high splice, heel and sole regions, and for the formation of the associated instep portion of the stocking, the yarn M is brought into action at the first feed 2 along with the yarn M As already noted, the yarn M is the same as the yarn M fifteen denier, for At the second feed the thirty denier yarn A is substituted for the yarn A which is removed. As will immediately appear, two feed knitting is provided in the reinforced area, and the courses will be of substantially the same weight by reason of the fact that every other course will be produced by both yarns M and M and the intermediate courses by the yarn A, the total deniers being the same. It may be remarked at this point, however, that the yarn M may well be of the other type than nylon, for example cotton, lisle or silk. In fact, so long as one of the component yarns of the reinforced portion is of thermoplastic type, such as nylon, one or more of the others may be of a non-thermoplatsic yarn, the thermoplastic yarn taking care of the aspect of setting during preboarding.

The radially movable cams are now set as follows:

Cam 30 is now moved inwardly to a position in which it will engage at least the butts 64 and 66, though it may be moved sufficiently inwardly to be engageable with butts 68 as well, though, as will appear, these butts reach it at low position so as not to be effectively engaged thereby.

Cam 18 is moved outwardly from its previous position so as to engage long butts 64 only, missing butts 66 and 68.

Cam 22 is moved outwardly so as to miss the butts 68 but as to engage the butts 64 and 66.

Cam 28 is similarly moved outwardly so as to miss butts 68 but engage butts 64 and 66.

Considering first the instep needles having the intermediate length butts 66, these enter the cams along path a at cleared level. They are then depressed by cam 30 to tuck level and continue therefrom along the path b, their associated pattern jacks being selected so as to not to rise over cam 58. At the first feed they are lowered by cam 12. By reason of their movement at tuck level they take only the yarn M missing the yarn M They then rise over cam 16 to follow the path 0 at tuck level, missing the cam 18 to continue along path d. At this level they miss the yarn A and are depressed by cam 22, the yarn M being still retained in their hooks. They are then successively raised by earns 26 and 28 back to the cleared path at a.

The result is that these instep needles knit single feed the yarn M The resutling knitting is shown in the portion 66' of FIGURE 4, the successive single feed courses being designated I, II, III and IV.

Next there may be considered the needles having butts 64, the long butt needles, which form the reinforced portion of the stocking, namely the high splice (if any), the heel and sole.

These needles enter the cam along the cleared path a and are depressed by the cam 30. They are then again raised to cleared level along the path d. This result is achieved by selection, none of the butts 42 of their associated pattern jacks being engaged by any of the cams 56 so that the pattern jacks will ride up the cam 58 to raise the needles through the intermediate jacks 36. Following the rise at d, the intermediate jacks are depressed by the cam 50 to move the pattern jacks down to their original level. The needles then continue along the cleared path a (It may be here remarked that the 55 pattern jacks associated with the other needles are rocked inwardly by the action of one or more cams 56 on butts 42, that these jacks miss the cam 58 and the corresponding needles are not cleared at d.)

The long butt needles now pass down earns 10 and 12 and because of the approach at cleared height they take both yarns M and M Having been cleared they draw combined stitches of both of these yarns, to form the continuation of the courses I, II, III and IV as indicated at the right of FIGURE 4. (It will be noted that the right-hand portions of these courses are displaced in an attempt to represent in a single plane the aspect of the two feed fabric now being produced, though it will be understood that the stitches adjacent to the junction with the instep will in actuality be somewhat distorted. The drawn stitches of the group 64' are, however, of the same length as those at 65'.)

Following depression by cam 12, the long butt needles are raised by cam 16 to the path 0. They are then cleared by cam 18 to the path indicated at e. They then pass down the cams 2t and 22 successively, taking the yarn A. Finally they rise over cams 26 and 28 back to the cleared level a.

As will be evident from what has been described, these long butt needles form two feed fabric. The courses intermediate those previously described, and as shown at I, II, and III are formed by the second feed yarn A. As already pointed out, the successive courses of this portion of the fabric have approximately the same weight if the yarns are as described.

Considering next the pairs of needles 68 having short butts and flanking the long butt needles, these enter the cams along the path 1 at tuck height, and passing below cam 30 proceed along the path b, now holding the yarn A in their hooks as will presently appear. They are then lowered by cam 12, and, approaching it at tuck level, they take the yarn M only at the first feed. Stitches containing both yarns A and M are now drawn with knocking over of previous loops carried on the needle shanks. They then rise over cam 16 to path at tuck level. These needles would not be engaged by the cam l3, but they are raised to clear level e by the action of cam 62 on the butts 47. of their associated pattern jacks, these pattern jacks acting through the intermediate jacks 36 to so raise these needles. As already indicated, these pattern jacks have been moving at low level so as to pass the cams 53 and as without being raised. Their pattern jacks are restored to original position by the action of cam 52 on the associated intermediate jacks.

These needles then engage cam 26 to be lowered thereby and take yarn A at the second feed. However, they do not pass down cam 22 which is in a position to miss them, but continue moving along the path g. They also pass the cam 23 to follow the path 1 at tuck level.

The result of the foregoing is single feed knitting with the formation of stitches involving the yarns M and A taken at the successive feeds. This results in the formation of the two-needle panel 68 at each side of the panel 64.

it will now be evident, from consideration of FIGURE 4, that the yarn A will float between the end needles having butts 63 across the instep needles and that the yarn M will also float across the instep needles from the end needles of the long butt series. These floats are later cut out of the fabric in conventional fashion to leave the severed ends pictured in FIGURE 4.

At this point mention, may bemade of the particular advantages of the present invention. Note that the yarn A is the one which is introduced as the second feed yarn during the two feed knitting. However, it is not merely introduced in what could be regarded as a conventional fashion, but it is incorporated at each end of the two feed panel with the yarn M in the stitches in the panel 68. The fact that it is knitted into loops with a continuously would ordinarily result in enlarged loops or, in the case of running yarn effectively prevents the reeving action which short ends, in loop disengagement to produce runs. Thus avoided are not only the unsightly enlarged loops but the yarn ends may be clipped close to avoid the unsightly appearance of long yarn ends. Even if sufiicient reeving occurred to disengage yarn A from the end loop of a group 68', there would not occur a run since the wale would be continuous as to loops of yarn M A highly effective junction is thus produced between the two feed area of the fabric and the single feed area.

Reference may now be made to the formation of the toe which is desirably reinforced. In brief, all of the needles follow the path above described for the needles 64. The cam 30 may now be removed, while the cams 18, 22 and 28 are moved fully inwardly to engage the butts of all of the needles. As in the case of the two feed leg knitting, yarns are taken and drawn to form stitches at both feeds, but now to provide reinforcement both yarns M and M are fed at the first feed and the heavy yarn A is fed at the second feed. Since the needle movements are the same as described for the formation of the leg, they need not be here repeated.

The stocking is completed in usual fashion by seaming of the toe and preboarding to provide the desired shaping which is facilitated without undue stressing of stitches by reason of the extra fabric provided by the two feed knitting in the reinforced region, the stitches provided at both feeds in the two feed knitting being the same in size as those produced in the single feed instep.

Although definite deniers of yarn have been indicated by way of example to provide balanced density of fabric as between adjacent courses, it will be understood that other deniers may be used without changing the effectiveness of the invention. In fact, while reinforcement has been referred to, if desired other yarns may be used in the high splice, heel and sole portions so that they may be as sheer as the instep and leg portion of the stocking, while nevertheless the extra length of fabric produced provides for the heel pocket without undue stretching of the stitches. The high splice may, of course be omitted, and likewise the sole may be knit the same as the leg, without reinforcement and without two feed knitting of partial courses, all of the courses being knit two feed. The same is true of the toe.

It is particularly for the heel formation that it is desired to provide two feed knitting in conjunction with single feed knitting of the instep, the two feed knitting being to provide the extra fabric to make possible the turning of the heel without undue stretching of the loops. Various yarns may also be used, though thermoplastic yarn should be used in part to make possible the effective heat setting.

The overall result of what has been described is the formation of one continuous course followed by alternate partial courses knit at the second feed, there being provided where the two feed knitting joins the single feed knitting the locking action of the second feed courses to prevent enlarged loops and permit short ends to be provided, the result being secured because of the action of the needles to form the panels d8.

While plain fabric for the leg and instep as well as for the reinforced portion has been described, it will be evident that special stitch formations such as tuck stitches or floats may be provided in any area as may be desired to form mesh or non-run or resist run fabric. This is possible with the mechanism described in view of the selecting possibilities afforded by the pattern jacks and the controlling selection cams 56.

It will be evident that various other modifications may be provided in accordance with the invention without departing therefrom as defined in the following claims.

What is claimed is:

1. The method of knitting, by rotary knitting, on a circular knitting machine having at least two feeds, a fabric for the formation of stockings having instep and heel forming portions and junction portions extending walewise between the instep and heel forming portions, the method comprising, in the formation of said portions, feeding at least one yarn at only one of said feeds to needles of a first panel to produce single feed knitting of said instep portion, feeding at least one yarn at each of saidfeeds to needles of a second panel to produce two feed knitting-of said heel portion, and'feeding to needles of panels intermediate the foregoing panels yarns from both of said feeds but without clearingof needles until they take yarns at both ofsaid feeds to produce single feed knitting of said junction portions incorporating in stitches thereof loops of both of the last mentioned yarns taken at both of said feeds. 7

2. The method of claim 1 which includes the feeding of an additional yarn to the needles of said second panel.

3. A circular knitting machine for the formation by rotary knitting of a fabric for the formation "of stockings having instep and heel forming portions and junction portions extending walewise between the instep and heel forming portions, said machine comprising a needle cylinder, independent needles mounted therein, means cooperating with said needles for the formation of stitches, and means for feeding yarns to said needles at at least two spaced feeds, means controlling needle movements to effect, during rotary knitting, feed of at least one yarn at only one of said feeds to needles of a first panel and single feed knitting of said instep portion, means controlling needle movements to effect, during the same rotary knitting, feed of at least one yarn at each of said feeds to needles of a second panel and two feed knitting of said heel portion, and means controlling needle movements to effect, during the same rotafy knitting, feed, to needles of panels intermediate the foregoing panels, of yarns from both of said feeds, without clearing of needles until they take yarns at both of said :9 feeds, and single feed knitting of said junction portions, thereby to incorporate in stitches of said junction portions loops of'both of the last mentionedyar'ns taken at both of said feeds.

4. A knitting machine according to claim 3 comprising means controlling needle movements to'eifect, during another portion of rotary knitting, feed of yarns at both feeds to all of the needles and two feed 'knitting of another portion of the fabric.

5. A knitting machine'according 'to claim 3 in which said controlling means eflfects taking by needles of the second panel of a yarn' in addition to that taken by needles of the first panel at that feed at which needles of both the first-and second panels take yarn.

6. A knitting machine according to claim '5 comprising means controlling needle'movernents to effect, during another portion of rotary knitting, feed of yarns at both feeds to all of the needles and two feed knitting 'of another portion of the fabric.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,460,477 7/23 Carter 66l87 2,357,630 9/44 Cole 66l87 2,705,411 4/55 Friedlander 66l87 2,890,577 6/59 Lawson 6642 2,971,358 2/61 McDonough 6642 3,004,418 10/61 McDonough 66l87 FOREIGN PATENTS 1,210,858 10/59 France.

139,394 4/60 Russia.

RUSSELL C. MADER, Primary Examiner. 

1. THE METHOD OF KNITTING, BY ROTARY KNITTING, ON A CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE HAVING AT LEAST TWO FEEDS, A FABRIC FOR THE FORMATION OF STOCKINGS HAVING INSTEP AND HEEL FORMING PORTIONS AND JUNCTION PORTIONS EXTENDING WALEWISE BETWEEN THE INSTEP AND HEEL FORMING EXTENDING THE METHOD COMPRISING, IN THE FORMATION OF SAID PORTIONS, FEEDING AT LEAST ONE YARN AT ONLY ONE OF SAID FEEDS TO NEEDLES OF A FIRST PANEL TO PRODUCE SINGLE FEED KNITTING OF SAID INSTEP PORTION, FEEDING AT LEAST ONE YARN AT EACH OF SAID FEEDS TO NEEDLES OF A SECOND PANEL TO PRODUCE TWO FEED KNITTING OF SAID HEEL PORTION, AND FEEDING TO NEEDLES OF PANELS INTERMEDIATE THE FOREGOING PANELS YARNS FROM BOTH OF SAID FEEDS BUT WITHOUT CLEARING OF NEEDLES UNTIL THEY TAKE YARNS AT BOTH OF SAID FEEDS TO PRODUCE SINGLE FEED KNITTING OF SAID JUNCTION PORTIONS INCORPORATINNG IN STITCHES THEREOF LOOPS OF BOTH OF THE LAST MENTIONED YARNS TAKEN AT BOTH OF SAID FEEDS.
 3. A CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE FOR THE FORMATION BY ROTARY KNITTING OF A FABRIC FOR THE FORMATION OF STOCKINGS HAVING INSTEP AND HEEL FORMING PORTIONS AND JUNCTION PORTIONS EXTENDING WALEWISE BETWEEN THE INSTEP AND HEEL FORMING PORTIONS, SAID MACHINE COMPRISING A NEEDLE CYLINDER, INDEPENDENT NEEDLES MOUNTED THEREIN, MEANS COOPERATING WITH SAID NEEDLES FOR THE FORMATION OF STITCHES, AND MEANS FOR FEEDING YARNS TO SAID NEEDLES AT AT LEAST TWO SPACED FEEDS, MEANS CONTROLLING NEEDLES MOVEMENTS TO EFFECT, DURING ROTARY KNITTING, FEED OF AT LEAST ONE YARN AT ONLY ONE SAID FEEDS TO NEEDLES OF A FIRST PANEL AND SINGLE FEED KNITTING OF SAID INSTEP PORTION, MEANS CONTROLLING NEEDLES MOVEMENTS TO EFFECT, DURING THE SAME ROTARY KNITTING, FEED OF AT LEAST ONE YARN AT EACH OF SAID FEEDS TO NEEDLES OF A SECOND PANEL AND TWO FEED KNITTING OF SAID HEEL PORTION, AND MEANS CONTROLLING NEEDLE MOVEMENTS TO EFFECT, DURING THE SAME ROTARY KNITTING, FEED, TO NEEDLES OF PANELS INTERMEDIATE THE FOREGOING PANELS, OF YARNS FROM BOTH OF SAID FEEDS, WITHOUT CLEARING OF NEEDLES UNTIL THEY TAKE YARNS AT BOTH OF SAID FEEDS, AND SINGLE FEED KNITTING OF SAID JUNCTION PORTIONS, THEREBY TO INCORPORATE IN STITCHES OF SAID JUNCTION PORLTIONS LOOPS OF BOTH OF THE LAST MENTIONED YARNS TAKEN AT BOTH OF SAID FEEDS. 